Yung Chang is circulating at a cocktail party before a Beijing screening of his latest documentary, The Fruit Hunters. In his right hand, he carries half a durian, which he's hollowed out into a fruit bowl so guests can sample a slice.

"Have you ever really tried it?" he asks with a smile. "It's really creamy and ripe."

People step away as he approaches. Noses wrinkle. Eyes widen. It may be really creamy, but ... it stinks!